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If you're not using a stencil to apply solder paste (this is almost always the case for prototype boards), you'll need to add some solder to the pads of the footprint. Here we pre-tin the pads with solder.
Some components have a center pad. 99% of the time this pad does NOT need to be connected to function. Usually it's just a GND pad. When pretinning a footprint, sometimes you'll get a little bit of solder on this center pad. Make sure it's not much at all otherwise this 'domed' pad will squish out molten solder during backwashing a sand filter the IC mounting and short to all the surrounding pads.
This is a tight pitch (0.65mm I believe) CP2102 leadless IC. We've pre-tinned the footprint, now with a swirling motion from the gun, we heat the footprint until solder is molten-ish and place the IC down. You'll notice the IC jump into alignment on the footprint. This is the surface tension of the solder pulling the IC center. Very cool. Then I went and tapped it a bit to show how to align the IC if need be. Don't get greedy. You have a finite amount of time you can stress the PCB before backwashing a sand filter things go south.
Here we re-heat backwashing a sand filter a board to adjust the IC. Be careful, you can only do this once or twice before the PCB starts to give out. Towards the end of the movie you can see where the air flow actually causes the IC to raise up a bit and center itself. It's common with novices and too high of air flow to blow the chip completely off the board.
This board was faulty for some undetectable reason so we need to pull the IC off, clean up the PCB and the IC and then mount the IC back on. This video shows heating up the four sides with a circular motion of the air gun and slightly lifting on the IC. We use lead free solder backwashing a sand filter paste so it takes a bit of time for the solder to release. backwashing a sand filter Notice I am not lifting hard enough to raise the PCB - give the IC time to let go of the PCB on its own.
I've re-tinned the PCB with new solder. I've also cleaned up the bottom of the IC by re-tinning and removing any solder paste gunk that may have been shorting pads together on the bottom backwashing a sand filter of the IC. Now I pre-heat the footprint a bit with a swirling motion to get the solder molten, place (throw) the IC down and it almost immediately goes to the center of the footprint. I bump the IC a bit (side to side and a bit of downward pressure) to make sure the IC is in contact with the footprint pads. A little more swirling of the air and the IC re-centers on the footprint backwashing a sand filter and then I remove the air.
Here is an example of the hot air flow turned up (heat is still the same). We can quite easily blow away 0603 components. With leaded solder, they would blow away on their own. Because we use lead-free paste, its a bit more tacky but with a little help the bits go flying!
So we've warned you not to sit too long on a given spot on a PCB while working with hot air. What happens? The glue that holds the copper layer to the FR4 laminate underneath lets go and comes out as black goo. The green soldermask on the top side also begins to come off. Because we don't have Smell-a-vision yet, we can try to describe the smell - it's horrendous. It smells backwashing a sand filter like burning electronics (surprise) but the smell seems to cling to your skin and clothes. backwashing a sand filter Not cool. So pr
Categories New Products Top Sellers Staff Picks Gift Certificates Classes & Events Books Breakout Boards ► Cables Audio Ethernet Hook Up Parallel Serial USB Video ► Cellular Antennas Eval Boards Modules ► Components AVR Microcontrollers Buttons/Switches EL General General ICs LEDs 10mm 3mm 5mm 7-Segment Other SMD Oscillators PIC Microcontrollers PICAXE Microcontrollers SMD ICs ► Development Tools .NET Android Arduino Boards Other Shields ARM AVR Beagle Chumby FPGA Gadgeteer iPod Java LPC mbed MSP PCDuino PIC PICAXE Propeller PSoC Raspberry Pi Roomba SAM ST STAMP Wiring WIZnet Dings and Dents ► E-Textiles Aniomagic fabrickit LilyPad Materials Educators ► GPS Antennas Eval Boards Modules Kits ► LCDs Color Monochrome Port-O-Rotary ► backwashing a sand filter Programmers ARM AVR MAXQ PIC PICAXE ► Prototyping Batteries Boards Connectors Enclosures backwashing a sand filter General Hardware Sockets Solar Wire ► Retail Arduino Components backwashing a sand filter Kits Materials Prototyping Sensors Tools Wireless ► backwashing a sand filter Retired Books Breakout Boards Cables Cellular Classes Components Development Tools Ding and Dent E-Textiles GPS Kits LCD Programmers Prototyping Retail Robotics Sensors SFE Widgets Swag Tools Wireless ► Robotics Drivers Kits Motors Other Wheels Sale ► backwashing a sand filter Sensors Accelerometers backwashing a sand filter 1-axis 3-axis Biometrics Capacitive Current backwashing a sand filter Flex / Force Gyros 2-axis 3-axis ID IMU Infrared Light / Imaging Magneto Proximity Radiation Sound Temperature Weather Swag ► Tools Hand Tools Hot-Air Rework Instruments Organization Power Supplies Soldering Widgets ► Wireless Antennas Bluetooth backwashing a sand filter General Modem Nordic WiFi ZigBee & 802.15.4 900MHz Series 1 (802.15.4) Series 2 (ZigBee)
If you're not using a stencil to apply solder paste (this is almost always the case for prototype boards), you'll need to add some solder to the pads of the footprint. Here we pre-tin the pads with solder.
Some components have a center pad. 99% of the time this pad does NOT need to be connected to function. Usually it's just a GND pad. When pretinning a footprint, sometimes you'll get a little bit of solder on this center pad. Make sure it's not much at all otherwise this 'domed' pad will squish out molten solder during backwashing a sand filter the IC mounting and short to all the surrounding pads.
This is a tight pitch (0.65mm I believe) CP2102 leadless IC. We've pre-tinned the footprint, now with a swirling motion from the gun, we heat the footprint until solder is molten-ish and place the IC down. You'll notice the IC jump into alignment on the footprint. This is the surface tension of the solder pulling the IC center. Very cool. Then I went and tapped it a bit to show how to align the IC if need be. Don't get greedy. You have a finite amount of time you can stress the PCB before backwashing a sand filter things go south.
Here we re-heat backwashing a sand filter a board to adjust the IC. Be careful, you can only do this once or twice before the PCB starts to give out. Towards the end of the movie you can see where the air flow actually causes the IC to raise up a bit and center itself. It's common with novices and too high of air flow to blow the chip completely off the board.
This board was faulty for some undetectable reason so we need to pull the IC off, clean up the PCB and the IC and then mount the IC back on. This video shows heating up the four sides with a circular motion of the air gun and slightly lifting on the IC. We use lead free solder backwashing a sand filter paste so it takes a bit of time for the solder to release. backwashing a sand filter Notice I am not lifting hard enough to raise the PCB - give the IC time to let go of the PCB on its own.
I've re-tinned the PCB with new solder. I've also cleaned up the bottom of the IC by re-tinning and removing any solder paste gunk that may have been shorting pads together on the bottom backwashing a sand filter of the IC. Now I pre-heat the footprint a bit with a swirling motion to get the solder molten, place (throw) the IC down and it almost immediately goes to the center of the footprint. I bump the IC a bit (side to side and a bit of downward pressure) to make sure the IC is in contact with the footprint pads. A little more swirling of the air and the IC re-centers on the footprint backwashing a sand filter and then I remove the air.
Here is an example of the hot air flow turned up (heat is still the same). We can quite easily blow away 0603 components. With leaded solder, they would blow away on their own. Because we use lead-free paste, its a bit more tacky but with a little help the bits go flying!
So we've warned you not to sit too long on a given spot on a PCB while working with hot air. What happens? The glue that holds the copper layer to the FR4 laminate underneath lets go and comes out as black goo. The green soldermask on the top side also begins to come off. Because we don't have Smell-a-vision yet, we can try to describe the smell - it's horrendous. It smells backwashing a sand filter like burning electronics (surprise) but the smell seems to cling to your skin and clothes. backwashing a sand filter Not cool. So pr
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